The Algarve's western coast is all ochre cliffs, hidden coves and sea caves you reach by small boat at first light. We base journeys in a handful of quiet clifftop hideaways, far from the resort strip, and plan each day around the tide, the light and the tables worth driving for.

Expect a private boat to the sea arches, long lunches of grilled fish and white wine, and an evening walk to the lighthouse as the beam begins to turn. Best from May to early July and again in September, when the water is warm and the coast is yours.